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連帽衫設計惹自殺聯想 Burberry 致歉下架

2019/2/20 — 19:59

Burberry 模特兒 Liz Kennedy Instagram 圖片

Burberry 模特兒 Liz Kennedy Instagram 圖片

英國經典品牌 Burberry 周日(17日)在倫敦時裝週,展出一款連帽衫,以掛在頸上的套索(noose)為衫繩設計,被斥令人聯想起自殺或私刑的場面,引起軒然大波。其後 Burberry 的行政總裁和創作總監周二(19日)發聲明致歉,並把該設計撤回。

該款連帽衫名為「暴風雨」(Tempest),是 Burberry 最新秋冬系列之一。Burberry 行政總裁 Marco Gobbetti 在聲明中稱,公司對這件上衣引起的焦慮誠摯地致歉,指該上衣已從秋冬系列下架,又稱整個系列的概念來自航海,「我們的確未有意識到他人的感受(insensitive),我們是犯了錯誤。」品牌的創作總監 Riccardo Tisci 亦致歉,承認在設計上有失誤,並不想激怒任何人,承諾不會再犯同類錯誤。

模特兒批:自殺不是時尚

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爆出今次設計問題的,是當日有份行時裝秀的 Burberry 模特兒 Liz Kennedy,她在 Instagram 上發了一張該款連帽衫的照片,並向品牌和 Tisci 發長篇訊息,狠批一向以典雅品牌稱著的 Burberry,不應忽視設計如此明顯地與套索有相似之處,竟以掛在頸上的套索(noose)為衫繩設計,斥「自殺不是時尚」,不單令人聯想起自殺,又指設計令人想起在歷史上,對弱勢社群行私刑(lynching)時,用以吊死被欺凌者的套索。

Kennedy 稱看到這設計後,觸起了她過去有家人自殺時,所要承受的痛苦,於是立刻找品牌中人詢問,不過那人稱「這只不過是時裝,沒有人理會你的個人生活」,又叫她不要揚聲。Burberry 行政總裁 Gobbetti 稱在得悉該設計後,已致電 Kennedy 道歉。

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英國精神健康基金會亦指責該款設計,指事件反映時裝品牌必須重新審視創作過程,近年在精神健康方面有不少突破,竟然仍有這樣的設計出現,令人失望,不過喜見 Burberry 肯為此道歎,並把設計下架。基金會又稱,極具影響力的大型時裝品牌應以身作則,帶出多元觀點,尊重有不同生活經歷的人。

近日,有不少時裝品牌的設計,踏中令人爭議的底線,譬如Gucci 的一款遮著半張臉、上有紅唇的黑色高領毛衣,被社交媒體質疑是扮黑人(blackface)、有種族歧視之嫌,最後要在上星期撤回。Prada 去年年底推出一款紅唇猴子吊飾,亦引發涉嫌影射非洲裔人負面形象的爭議,結果 Prada 要急急把產品及宣傳品全下架「滅火」。

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

@burberry @riccardotisci17 Suicide is not fashion. It is not glamorous nor edgy and since this show is dedicated to the youth expressing their voice, here I go. Riccardo Tisci and everyone at Burberry it is beyond me how you could let a look resembling a noose hanging from a neck out on the runway. How could anyone overlook this and think it would be okay to do this especially in a line dedicated to young girls and youth. The impressionable youth. Not to mention the rising suicide rates world wide. Let’s not forget about the horrifying history of lynching either. There are hundreds of ways to tie a rope and they chose to tie it like a noose completely ignoring the fact that it was hanging around a neck. A massive brand like Burberry who is typically considered commercial and classy should not have overlooked such an obvious resemblance. I left my fitting extremely triggered after seeing this look (even though I did not wear it myself). Feeling as though I was right back where I was when I was going through an experience with suicide in my family. Also to add in they briefly hung one from the ceiling (trying to figure out the knot) and were laughing about it in the dressing room. I had asked to speak to someone about it but the only thing I was told to do was to write a letter. I had a brief conversation with someone but all that it entailed was “it’s fashion. Nobody cares about what’s going on in your personal life so just keep it to yourself” well I’m sorry but this is an issue bigger than myself. The issue is not about me being upset, there is a bigger picture here of what fashion turns a blind eye to or does to gain publicity. A look so ignorantly put together and a situation so poorly handled. I am ashamed to have been apart of the show. #burberry. I did not post this to disrespect the designer or the brand but to simply express an issue I feel very passionate about.

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